Puerto Chacabuco, Chile (Friday, March 09)

We awoke to find SIRENA in the Aisen Fjord.  An unnecessary precaution given that we are early risers, we had set a pre-dawn alarm clock.  This was not as dramatic as it sounds given sunrise was 0744.  We watched the mountains emerge from the darkness.  Their height and the angle at which they plunged into the water suggested that our ship’s captain need not be overly concerned about depth under the keel. 

It was nippy – 46^oF. This did not deter us from spending time on our veranda and subsequently on the upper decks so that we had 360^o views.  We had not brought true cold weather clothing with us, but we had brought plenty of layers of clothing in anticipation of cooler weather.  

Some of our fellow passengers were caught off-guard by the thermal drop over the past few days.  They are likely to be uncomfortable on deck and ashore until we are well north of the Falkland Islands a week from now.

As the sun rose in partly cloudy skies, the light revealed the true height of the mountains and cast constantly changing light on them.  Waterfalls materialized out of what seemed to be almost vertical forests.  There were numerous signs of life along the shoreline, but nothing that suggested civilization even a modest way up the mountains.  As for the top of the mountains, it was conceivable no one hand ever set foot there. 

Eventually, near the head of the fjord, we dropped anchor at Puerto Charabuco, a modest community which misled me to the assumption that it was an isolated community connected to the outside world by the large ferry that I saw at the pier.  I later learned that there was a major road into the area and a regional population large enough to support multiple daily “big plane” flights. 

Today, Pam and I were off on separate tours.

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Today's Tour - Pam: COYHAIQUE AND SIMPSON VALLEY

Begin with a scenic drive to Coyhaique, crossing the Andes Mountains from the coast to the East. Your route will take you along the Simpson river via a narrow mountainous valley that is the habitat of a varied and abundant collection of birds. A photo stop will be made at the Alto Baguales viewpoint, where you will have a superb vista of Coyhaique city.

Upon arrival in Coyhaique, you'll enjoy a panoramic drive through the downtown area before visiting Coyhaique's main square and handicraft market. Afterwards, light refreshments will be served at a local restaurant before making the return trip to the pier.

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I have offered Pam space here for a report on her tour.  This report may not be forthcoming.  Heavy rain most of the afternoon had severely compromised the schedule and quality of sites seen.  And there was the ubiquitous 45-minute stop at a crafts market that she considered less that a constructive use of her tour time.

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Today's Tour - Harry:   FLY FISHING ADVENTURE IN PATAGONIA

Fly fish for rainbow and brown trout in the Patagonian countryside, accompanied by a seasoned guide that will provide expert tips and local knowledge to enhance the experience.

After departing from the pier, you will enjoy a picturesque drive throughout the wilds of Patagonia, past the city of Puerto Aysen and on to Los Torreones Lodge. Known primarily as a fishing lodge, boutique-style Los Torreones sits on the banks of the Simpson River, which is loaded with big brown and rainbow trout.

Fishing is spectacular throughout this part of Patagonia. For the best possible experience, weather and water conditions will dictate exactly where you fish. You might fly fish the Simpson from the comfort of a Mackenzie drift boat, or if the nearby Manihuales or Aysen River appears more suitable, the guide may opt for one of those waterways. Other choices include magnificent Riesco Lake or a small stream that can only be fished with waders.

No matter which body of water you fish, your guide will provide the equipment and expert advice to ensure a memorable experience. The trout in this area typically range between 16 and 20 inches long and weigh 3 to 6 pounds.

Rainbow and brown trout were introduced to Chile in the early 1900s for sport fishing. Landing one is a thrill; landing a trophy trout is even more exhilarating.

After approximately three hours of fly fishing on one of the rivers or Riesco Lake, you will return to the pier.

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There were only eight of us on my tour, which had been sold out for weeks.  On the pier, we were met by three guides.  We divided ourselves up amongst three trucks and headed out.  We drove about 30 minutes to Los Torrenones Lodge, along the way passing in and out of rain.

At the lodge we were joined by a fourth guide.  Our group of eight was subdivided into two groups of four.  One group would fish from boats, the other wade in a stream.  I quickly raised my hand to be one of the waders. 

After being equipped with waders and boots, our group of four along with two guides drove another 25 minutes to a stream above the valley.  Although not a steep rise, the movement up and inland improved the weather significantly.  It was still mostly overcast and occasionally spitting rain, but  it was less murky and the downpours had stopped.

At the stream, we again divided.  Along with a gentleman named Henry, my guide Philip Cary took us to a hopeful spot, separating us by about 50 yards.   

It had been a long time since I had donned waders and walked out into moving water.  It was instantly obvious to me that I was most definitely out of practice on walking along an uneven rocky bottom in three-foot deep moving water.  It did not take long to recall that it was best to focus on moving or focus on fishing, and seriously unwise to divide one’s attention by doing both simultaneously.

My casting, while far from skilled, was better than my wading.  After signing up for this tour, I had practiced my casting in my driveway and backyard.  Without realizing it, I had also practiced not catching. 

At the end of the day no fish, although two rose to the fly.  My right wader leaked from the moment I stepped into the water, soaking my sock and pant leg.  Other than a few sprinkles the weather was fine.  I did not lose my footing.  My casting often got the fly where I wanted it to go.  I was fly fishing in a stream in Patagonia. It was a great experience. 

Out of my waders, and with a spare dry sock on my right foot, it was back into a truck for the return trip to the pier, by-passing the lodge.  The closer we got to the ship, the more the weather deteriorated. 

I got back to the ship ahead of Pam, whose tour ran a bit longer than expected (or desired).

The ship raised its anchor just after sunset – 8:30.  Unfortunately, that meant that we transited down the fjord in darkness, but a steady rain would have compromised a daylight transit.

Tomorrow, more fjords.  Here’s hoping for reasonable weather.